The renaissance of a Heritage Brand; the old meets the new. ‘The Birds and the Bees’/ Burberry Prorsum S/S15

  Burberry’s S/S15 collection’s title ‘The birds and the bees’ implies play, joy and innocence. It’s inspired from the British costal birds and the colours of the British countryside; it aims to alter by using different colours, to implement the ideas of freshness, rebirth and freedom and propounds contradiction among fragility and strength. However, in my view, the key message conveyed by Christopher Bailey (CC- & CEO) is the ambition –and in my opinion achievement– to change completely but not at all, respecting the 40 years of inspiration and interaction with co-workers and House’s customers.

  S/S15 indeed succeeded in this regard. The playful, joyful and charming colours –pastel tones of green, yellow and blue resembling sunlight’s interplay with the British countryside following the rain– and the freedom of the vibrant regeneration of clothes, shoes and handbags successfully reach younger –than the traditional “Burberry-ans”– ages (who may had previously found Burberrys boring), but also please the traditional Burberry’s public as the collection’s twist enhance charm, elegance, sophistication and time-lastingness.

  One of the collection’s highlights is denim jacket’s rebirth; the phenomenon is not unusual for Burberry as we’ve seen it previously with the biker jacket, the aviation jacket, the gritty parka and the trench (notably also being creatively re-presented in S/S15). The denim jacket is inventively being transformed into a tight wasp-waisted jean jacket, which is either being simply cropped or is accompanied by white sheepskin fur around the waist or by ostrich feathers.

  Regeneration also applies to shoes: trendy field flats and stylish sneakers in bright colours with trendy striped foamy soles, joyfully and in a liberal way combined with the clothes (for instance with the outstanding printed dresses).

  In the same regard are the tulle dresses and the skirts; skirts made of organza layers or covered by round coloured palettes, made of sheer silk (a creatively regenerated material) and skirts with sheer concertina pleats. In this line of rebirth notable are the coats, notably those in green grass suede with PVC collars. In keeping with this twist is the reborn trench heritage coat: bright colours (resembling birds and bees), abstract book-printed bee motifs, written words (insect, sun, flowers) and coloury tulle bows instead of belts; albeit their design, cut and style unequivocally emit Burberry’s aura.

  Alike in terms of rebirth are the book cover print handbags, the pouch, the portfolio bags and the mini bee bags (leather hand-painted with gloss patent trim and heritage buckle fastenings, or in indigo denim, or in horse ferry checks with Burberry’s signature check pattern).  

  Furthermore, the interaction of the S/S15 pieces with the show’s set-up generate a genuinely pleasant and glamorous feelings similar to those experienced at some famous London’s spots, like for instance at the alternative albeit so typically British and socialite Portobello Road: it’s the models’ motion (with Suki Waterhouse being central), the freshness and tempo implied by James Bay’s song (music and promotion of young people directly relates to Bailey’s years in Burberry), the openness of the transparent roof, the hand-painted birds, bees and coloury slogans on the runway, and the glamorous faces of My Burberry’s campaign, namely Cara Delavigne and Kate Moss sitting alongside to Matio Testino in guest’ front row. This combined effect, but primarily the charming, elegant, fresh and colourful collection is clearly and directly received: one knows immediately, it’s a new Burberry fashion proposal.